F&I office: Business -- or monkey business?By
Karen M. Kroll Bankrate.com
OK, you've settled on the car you want and the price you're willing
to pay for it. You're done, right? Not quite. You probably still need to meet
with one other person -- often referred to as the F&I guy (or gal), the dealer's
finance and insurance manager. Watch out!
Remember: The dealer never stops looking
to make money. "Most people think of the F&I
guy as a financial adviser. But they're salespeople,"
says Philip Reed, author of the Edmunds.com
book, "Strategies for Smart Car Buyers."
"Their purpose is to maximize the deal."
Negotiations with the salesman are almost all verbal.
But after you reach a handshake agreement, a different person takes that agreement
and puts it in writing. "The transition can be dangerous,"
adds Reed.
It's time to stay focused, examine the contract
and avoid these mistakes:
Buying into dealer financing:
Some dealers may imply that you have to work through their finance
department. You don't. If you can obtain better terms elsewhere,
there's no reason you shouldn't.
Not reading the contract:
It sounds basic, and it is. Even so, many people fail
to do it. "Most people spend more time analyzing a watermelon
in the grocery store than they do reviewing a contract for a
$30,000 car," says Jeff Ostroff of ConsumerNet Inc., the
Fort Lauderdale-based firm that publishes carbuyingtips.com.
Tired of negotiating, many assume the written contract will
reflect all the negotiations that already have occurred. That's
not always the case.
"In the dealership, you need to understand
everything you sign on the contract," says Mark McCready,
director of pricing strategies with carsdirect.com,
Los Angeles.
Mistaking a lease for
a purchase: An unscrupulous car dealer may slip a "lease
to own" contract in front of you when you think you're
buying a car. That may be how the monthly payment got so low.
Many lease contracts are lease-to-own agreements, but that's
not the same as buying the car. With a lease, you're paying
the amount that the car is depreciating. To purchase the car
at the end of the lease term, you may have to make a large balloon
payment or refinance.
Failing to research extended
warranties: Extended warranties (aka, service contracts)
kick in once the warranty that comes with a new car expires.
For some drivers, it makes sense to know they're protected if
anything goes wrong. Before purchasing an extended warranty,
however, keep these pointers in mind:
-
Recognize that
no regulations force you to purchase an extended
warranty.
-
Know what the
original car warranty covers. Most are good
for at least 36,000 miles and/or three years.
It's only after this period that the extended
warranty kicks in.
-
Look for a manufacturer's
warranty, rather than a dealer or aftermarket
warranty. A manufacturer's warranty is good
anywhere in the country that the car is sold.
A dealer warranty may require you to use a
specific dealer for all car repairs.
- F&I offices will mark up the service contract,
says Mark Gargano, general manager of finance
leads for car.com.
"It's a big profit center for them so there
is room to negotiate the price because it's
an area they mark up."
-
Make sure an
aftermarket warranty company is a viable business.
"There's no promise they'll stay in business,"
says Mark Perleberg, lead automotive expert
with NADAguides.com,
Costa Mesa, Calif. You don't want to pay for
a warranty only to find the company behind
it isn't around when you need it.
-
Check the terms.
Eva Rosenberg, publisher of taxmama.com,
says she once almost signed a warranty that
required her to pay a $200 deductible for
each visit. "We were hit with a shock,"
she says. While Rosenberg was able to negotiate
the removal of the clause, her experience
emphasizes the importance of closely reading
the contract.
-
Know what the
extended warranty covers. The best is a bumper-to-bumper
warranty that includes a free loaner car while
your car is in for repairs, says Rosenberg.
Purchasing insurance you
don't want: Finance managers often push for you to buy
insurance policies, such as gap
insurance. This pays you if your car is stolen or totaled,
and you owe more than it is worth. Say your car is totaled and
you owe $15,000, but your auto insurance company will pay you
only its current value of $10,000. You'd be responsible for
the $5,000 to pay off the loan. Gap insurance would cover that
difference.
In some situations, this makes sense. In others,
it's a waste of hard-earned cash. Sometimes your regular auto
insurance policy already includes this coverage. Crunch the
numbers before you enter the F&I office.
Another type of insurance, credit
life insurance, will repay the balance of your loan should
you die before it's paid off. Again, you'll need to logically
think through your financial situation to see if this makes
sense for you.
Agreeing to front-load
the interest: Some car loans will require you to pay
all the interest upfront, meaning you'll be hit with extra interest
charges if you prepay the loan. Make sure your loan has straight
amortization, advises Rosenberg of taxmama.com. That way, your
payments will cover the principal as well as the interest.
Paying for extras you
don't want: A dealer may throw into the car purchase
agreement any number of extra products, such as fabric protection,
pinstriping, undercoating and VIN etching. "They're ridiculous,"
says Reed of Edmunds.com. Most car shoppers can apply their
own fabric protection for hundreds less than the dealer will
charge, and all cars are undercoated at the factory. VIN etching
refers to the practice of etching the car's vehicle identification
number (VIN) into different parts of the car, such as the window.
Most industry experts say it doesn't offer much protection against
thieves, but if you want this, you can spend about $20 and 20
minutes etching your car yourself, says Ostroff of carbuyingtips.com.
Dealers may charge several hundred dollars.
Trading in a car you haven't
paid off: Trading in a car on which you still owe money
can be dangerous for several reasons. First, your pocketbook
will take a hit, as you may still be paying off your old car,
even as you're paying on the new car you're leasing or purchasing.
Also, you'll be spreading that existing balance -- and paying
interest on it -- over the life of the new loan instead the
few months you had left on the old loan.
What's more, a few dealers have used this technique
to scam customers, explains Ostroff, by not paying off the balance
on your trade-in. When customers eventually hear from the bank
about the delinquent payments, the finance managers offer to
pay off some of the balance, but try to shift the remainder
back to the customer. "It's another way for them to squeeze
a few more payments from you," says Ostroff.
To avoid this, make sure you obtain an agreement
in writing that says the dealership will completely pay off
your old loan within 10 days of the date of the agreement, he
recommends.
Failing to prepare: Preparation
and stamina can help you navigate the negotiation process with
the finance manager. Do your homework. Know your credit score,
know what interest rate you should qualify for; know what the
cars you like are going for; and know what extras you will and
won't pay for. Make sure your contract reflects your wishes.
Then, remain on your toes when you get to the finance manager's
office.
"It's like a chess match, "says Ostroff.
"You want to think ahead about what they are going to say.
Then you want to figure out how to debunk it."
Karen M. Kroll is a
freelance writer in Minnesota.
-- Updated: July 19,
2006
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