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| Tips on smart shopping for holiday
jewelry |
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| Diamonds
The
four Cs of cut, color, clarity and carat weight determine a diamond's value.
Cut: "Cut refers to the arrangement and angles of
the facets and the proportions of the diamond," says Jerry Ehrenwald,
GG, ASA, president and CEO of the North and South American division
of the International Gemological Institute, or IGI. The artisan
polishing the gemstone determines how well the cut is executed,
he says. In turn, the cut affects other qualities, such as brilliance.
Cut shouldn't get confused with the shape of a diamond, he says.
Shape refers to the final geometrical outline of the gemstone. So,
marquise, princess or round cuts actually refer to shape.
Color:
the closer to colorless, usually the higher the value.Clarity:
Does it have any flaws? And if it does, can you see them with the naked eye? International
grading standards use an 11-step scale, from flawless to flaws visible to the
naked eye, to rate clarity.
Carat weight: The bigger it is the more expensive
it's likely to be. A carat equals 100 points. So if you are looking
at a 50-point diamond, you know you're dealing with half a carat.
You want to know that the stones are real and that they have not
been treated. If you're spending several hundred dollars or more,
get a laboratory statement from an International Organization for
Standardization-certified lab. One example: The IGI issues a grading
report for stones less than one carat (and will issue a full report
if requested) and a diamond grading report for stones of a carat
or more.
"You want to ask, does this diamond necklace come with any
kind of a laboratory report?" says Simanton. "If it doesn't, are you
guaranteeing that this is a natural diamond and has not been treated in any way?"
While it should be a given
for larger stones like diamond engagement rings, reports are also
sometimes available on smaller stones.
"Less expensive jewelry
is still, in reputable stores, being sold with a reputable jewelry
report," says Ehrenwald. "Why should a consumer who can
only pay $199 for a ring not also get unbiased and independent information?"
he says. An IGI jewelry report will supply that impartial data, he says.
Precious
metals
Good jewelry is more than just stones. It will also contain some
precious metal, usually gold, silver or platinum. Pure gold is 24
karat. So if gold is marked 14K, it's 14 parts gold and 10 parts
something else. For fine jewelry in the United States, 14K and 18K
gold is common, says Ehrenwald. You can also see "585"
(for 58.5 percent gold or 14K) or "750" (for 75 percent
gold or 18K.)
With platinum, the metal must
be at least 95 percent platinum, Ehrenwald says. Look for "950
Plat" or "950 Pt." or higher.
Silver can come in several
grades. For jewelry, look for sterling silver. You'll see the word
"sterling" or the abbreviation "ster" or the
number "925" (for 92.5 percent silver.)
Emeralds,
rubies and sapphires
When it comes to colored gemstones, emeralds, sapphires and rubies
are "the big three," says Simanton. And with larger stones,
she says, "make sure you get that laboratory report."
With
laboratory creations of emeralds, rubies and sapphires, "the average member
of the public can't tell the difference," Simanton says.
With smaller stones, though, you "probably
won't get a laboratory report," she says. "Just be concerned:
Are you buying it from a reputable place? Is it real? It has to
be properly labeled."
And
that's where a warranty or guarantee is valuable. "If you're buying a washing
machine, you want a warranty," says Simanton. "They come with them. No
appliance store of any repute would try to sell one without one. Why would you
spend hundreds or thousands on a ruby without knowing if it's authentic?" |
